The enemy is sicklepod

Monday 16 September saw me wise enough to know that Tanya's cappucino was not to be missed for breakfast.

Cappuccino and fresh air were features of breakfast

Eventually I asked if any had heard the shots in the night. 'That was me', proclaimed a grinning Steve. 'My aim is not too good with a torch strapped to the shotgun, but I think I hit that wild dog in the rump!'  Mystery solved, but even so I did not fancy the company of such creatures so my doors stayed closed overnight. Back at the tree planting site some weed control was in order. I enjoyed pulling out sicklepod (once in seed it is impervious to poison) and was delighted to learn that death by fire was its fate. I was not too impressed with Steve's idea of simply dousing the freshly pulled weeds in something flammable and setting alight, and my disdain soon proved justified. After gathering plenty of kindling a fierce blaze under the midday sun saw the job well executed, and I felt happy and fulfilled.

Recently planted trees and ashes from the sicklepod burning against the backdrop of Mt Sorrow

I readily partook of the afternoon trip to Mossman to stock up with provisions, collect a repaired washing machine and deposit another. A cane train trundling down the middle of the main street confirmed that Mossman's sugar mill was repaired and working, to the relief of the local growers. I also became aware of how many places now provided shade for parked cars, giving protection from the sun, and on occasion hail. 

Woolworths in Mossmann, with peeking peaks!

On the way home I purchased a red paw paw (papaya) from a stall, the skins of which I hoped might lure the cassowaries to visit. We returned via the little town of Daintree (untempted by the crocodile express), explored a little upriver, and took in the view from Walu Wugirriga lookout. Dinner was another of Tanya's delicious, chilli featuring, creations :) 

Fruit stall and Bismark palm

Daintree ferry crossing - Steve's small sailing boat was moored on the opposite bank

For breakfast Tuesday I enjoyed some paw paw, and hoped the cassowaries would appreciate my generosity and do the same. Hearing that Roger (Steve's boss who was to arrive that evening) was fond of a fire was all the incentive I needed to spend the morning gathering more than enough fuel to make a roaring blaze. I also needed to take more photos of my surroundings, collect some of the coconuts lying around, and so forth. An afternoon walk to another pool sounded a lovely idea. 

Steve fancied a quick swim

Detouring to investigate some signs of frustrated habitation, we took longer than usual to return home. Tanya reported that the cassowaries had been, stayed for about 20mins enjoying the paw paw, and left not long before our return. Arghgghgh!

The cassowaries appeared from the far right when Jason and Hester were visiting

Accessing coconut insides is another specialist task accomplished by Steve

Replete after dinner: Steve, Roger (suitably impressed with my fire making prowess despite an absence of Boy Scout training), Tanya and her son Beau

Lost and Found in the Tropics

Sunday 15 September I awoke after a sound sleep and peeped out from the mosquito net to see this lovely misty mountain scene.

A cabin with a view

In the absence of any other way of knowing the time, the noise of the generator confirmed when the others were up. In daylight I soon found my way back to the house, making certain to remember landmarks along the way, such as the ablutions block and long drop.

Flowers from ginger plants in the garden adorned the shower

Long drop, framed by twin coconuts, with shower next door

Steve drove to the tree planting site (about 15km north) to show me some of Jason's handiwork, set against the spectacular backdrop of Mt Sorrow. The heat from the sun soon became intense so we took a sheltered walk to a tranquil pool in the creek between the two planting sites. Still not terribly compos mentis, my sense of direction was a little off as I attempted to find the way out again! Steve expressed surprise that any of 'the Hoffmann cousins' with their country background could be so daft!  Ha - I think I was the only one of my generation of that extensive clan to have grown up in town! After a short detour taking in the picturesque views at Cape Tribulation it was time to head home for a late lunch and relaxed afternoon.

I almost tripped over this well camouflaged goanna at Cape Tribulation

When the day cooled a little, Tanya showed me nearby Thornton beach, telling of the volcanic pumice washed up from NZ. We watched four lads swim to nearby Struck Island, clearly unconcerned about the potential presence of crocodiles. At low tide a causeway allows this island to be reached on foot.

Thornton Beach looking south to Cooper Creek which is inhabited by crocodiles  

Four lads have almost reached Struck Island

I settled in my cabin for another rather early bedtime. About midnight two, very close sounding, shots rang forth. What potential maniac might be on the loose my fertile imagination wondered? I closed the insubstantial lattice doors, turned off the light and burrowed deep under the doona (the temperature did drop at night!), hoping to wake alive next morning.

Tropical Wonderland

Saturday 14 September. Despite a couple of hours sleep I felt more than a little disorientated in sunny Cairns. 

Lipstick palms adorned The Hotel Cairns where I snoozed

The 8am walk around the seafront with Steve allowed me to recognise some of the views in Jason and Hester's photos, although I could not recall the town at all from a family visit back in the 70s. Tanya then drove us to the botanic gardens where Steve's knowledge of exotic plants soon became evident. An 11am brunch appointment at Holloway beach north of Cairns was comfortably managed; the photo suggests I indulged in my first, long awaited, malted milk. I do remember the sad phone chat with June (Steve's mum) which revealed that her sister Val, who had a deep stroke before I left England, was unlikely to recover. I also spoke with my father's cousin Delma, and hoped she might like to meet and get to know me.

Brunch in a pleasant cafe next to the beach in north Cairns

The weather had warmed considerably so as we journeyed north I was pleased to discover that in Tanya's car air conditioning equated to opening the window. My ongoing somewhat confused state deepened when the chap we picked up on a 180 degree detour near Port Douglas was dropped off in Mossman (although this did explain why he was not unhappy about being squashed in the back seat with Steve and assorted objects) and replaced with the motor for Steve's boat! Feeling the need of fresh air and less motion, I wandered around Mossmann while the others went about their business. I was awestruck by the huge epiphyte covered rain trees lining the road heading north out of town, and perplexed by the horrid substance-less smell (too recognisable to one who gets travel sick) which I later learnt came from the sugar mill nearby.

Looking south towards Mossman

I was awake enough to appreciate the Daintree ferry crossing, and soon we arrived at Steve and Tanya's residence near Diwan. I later discovered that the main gate has lovely images of a frog (symbol of the Australian Rainforest Foundation for whom Steve worked) and local big bird, the cassowary. 

The frog and cassowary (hidden by eucalypt flower) gate

I soon settled into my cabin, 'Ulysses', and agreed with Tanya's recommendation of sleeping with doors open to appreciate the morning view. Tanya created a most delicious Thai pumpkin curry soup for dinner from pumpkins grown in the garden. I accepted Steve's offer to walk me back to my cabin as, even with a lamp, I risked not finding my way. In Perth, while most went to bed around midnight I, still hyper, sat up for hours checking emails, FB, trying to convince myself I really was in Australia; now I was in great need of an early night. With the Internet only available in Steve's office, I downloaded my latest photos and soon nodded off. 

Delightful Perth

Thursday 12 September began fine enough for Heidi to take me for a waterfall walk in nearby Ellis Brook Nature Reserve. I already knew I was not too fit, but I soon realised it would have been wise not to have always used the same leg on the steep and numerous steps; it was only sore and stiff for a few days! We then drove to Kings Park, and while Heidi and Peter lunched I enjoyed wandering around the gardens and paths, especially the new high level walk.  I was most impressed with this first of several such boardwalks I experienced around Australia, and the native wildflowers were putting on a magnificent show. 

Sixty Foot Waterfall

Peter and Heidi in Kings Park

High level walk with views to Swan River

Wildflowers in Kings Park

I was then dropped in the city centre where I recognised very little! I managed to locate the relocated WAOA (once in Hay Street where offices were now being demolished and rebuilt) and was more than a little surprised to be recognised as I walked in the door! [I was unable to return Jim this favour. I had worked 18mths at WAOA, and learnt that a reunion dinner was being held that weekend. News later reached me that the founder who, plagued by severe familial dementia for over a decade, had not attended died soon after.] Another colleague now had his own practice just up the road; as Ian was out I left a message. I mostly avoided souvenir shops, and felt rather pleased to have discovered that a free, if rather indirect, bus was an alternative to my idea of walking to Leederville. I was also most amused that it was a CAT bus but alas it turned out quite unlike the Catbus in the Japanese animated fantasy film 'My Neighbor Totoro'! I had forgotten, or underestimated, just how attached Aussies are to their cars. Rush hour in Perth was a sight I would prefer not to have beheld, especially from a bus which in an hour moved just one block along Colin Street. I nodded off soundly twice with confidence, as my destination was the terminus for this route. 

End of the working day for many in Perth, 12 November 2013

I was relieved to not only hear but also answer a call on 'my' mobile (a device of which I am not fond, and passed on permanently to Jason when we met) from Liz once nearing their practice; Liz and I had studied optometry together at QIT in Brisbane. Although the afternoon had been fine, the initial suggestion from Liz of going to "the beach to watch the sunset with fish & chips" was not possible now cold rain had set in. Instead it was great to meet Liz's three daughters and partner Steve at Clancy's Fish Bar, City Beach. Steve then kindly drove back to Gosnells, familiar territory where he had once upon a time lived and worked. Heidi had advised me not to travel by train in their area after 7.30pm, so I was most pleased to be safely delivered to the door.

Steve, Tessa, Josie, Kari and Liz celebrate Kari's birthday

Friday morning Peter showed me his 'office', or rather an impressive site where his business Hycon Hydraulic Systems has flourished. We then visited a nearby sanctuary with many kangaroos in various states of rehabilitation. I'm not sure I would have the necessary patience or technique to feed the awkward recovering frog mouth owl. In the afternoon Ian paid a most unexpected but welcome visit, bearing treats from Miss Maud, an enterprise I remembered. 

Darling Range Wildlife Shelter

Ian, having ventured out to Pitt Street in Martin, was soon relieved of his cakes.

I was soon to endure my first and only Jetstar flight. They do not serve complimentary food, but I had heartily devoured Heidi's delicious beef stroganoff dinner, rounded off with freshly baked chocolate brownies. Heidi and Angela drove me back to the airport and assisted with checking in. I was sad my time in WA was already over, but most pleased with all that had happened.

Friday dinner with Peter, Chloe, Heidi, Cody and Rochelle

The 10pm 'red eye' to Cairns left an hour late and did not make up any time... An uncharacteristically helpful security man told Steve (son of my maternal cousin June) of the delay so he returned to his hotel. While others breakfasted, I was more than happy to be deposited in this hotel for a sleep as I feared some serious jet lag had begun to set in! I also knew that, judging from reports of visits by Jason and Hester, I was about to have an amazing time with Steve and Tanya in Far North Queensland (FNQ).

Arrival in Western Australia

I asked Mum if she would write up some of our time in Australia, and this is what happened...

Jason asked if I would be a guest blogger. I believe his intention was that I would write something of our time together, thus saving Jason some effort. However this seemed to me an opportunity to immortalise(?!) the rest of my fantastic time in Australia with amazing friends for whom nothing was too much trouble to make my visit perfect. Hopefully Jason's inspired posts will suitably record the month we spent together with family and friends in the delightful surrounds of South East Queensland (SEQ)!

I arrived in Perth at noon, Monday 9 September. 'Die Sonne scheint hell und warm' was the first German sentence I remember learning at school. It was almost applicable - the sun was hot, and VERY bright! I blinked hard. While my luggage had been quickly dispatched, claimed, and searched in detail by customs officers, Heidi and Angela (friends from when I lived in Perth 1978-79) were lounging upstairs in an airport coffee shop. Luckily they descended before, despite wearing a hat, I was overcome by sunstroke! Soon we were driving along exotic roads with unique flora enroute to suburban Perth. I felt great, and enjoyed the afternoon catching up with news and making a start on meeting Heidi and Peter's family before going to Angela's, via her parents (why do so many people remember my clarinet??), for a wonderful meal and welcome bed.

Rochelle, Peter and Lydia

Angela with her parents

Western Australia (WA) had looked surprisingly green from the air - so much so that I wondered whether the plane had taken a seriously wrong turn along the way. Next day I discovered why when the sun was replaced by rain, and lots of it. With the help of Arnie (a Schwarzenegger-sound-alike visiting techie) we made the decision to head south. This was my big chance to see the beach house Heidi and Peter own and often share with groups from their church. The ongoing very wet season explained the abundance, in low lying fields, of arum lilies, flowers which I had not noticed in earlier years and the locals abhorred.

Heidi (hiding) and Angela in front of Dunsborough house

Heidi is justifiably proud of her prize winning photo of the local jetty at sunrise, seen here in their beach home

Arum lilies growing wild

Good weather stayed with us that day as we explored the Dunsborough beach (just across the road and a dune from the VERY spacious holiday house) and other delights on offer around Margaret River. Some spent what looked to me a fortune in the chocolate factory. Still smarting from the very favourable (to Aussies!) value of the dollar, never mind the higher prices for many products imported from 'over East', I enjoyed the free samples! Heidi generously took us out to dinner - in return I merely bought icecreams at a place of great repute, Simmo's, next day...

It was just a short walk to the sea

Tuesday afternoon was already quite windy at the beach

Beautifully presented dinner in Dunsborough

Wednesday morning continued windy and the rain moved south and caught up with us. We were almost blown away at Canal Rocks, gasped at the magnificent Karri trees of Boranup Forest, and explored several delightful craft shops, before heading back to Perth. After dinner Angela's son Peter made a delicious, spoon stand up in, frothy coffee for me :) It was then time to move over to Heidi's home where I had a couple of (unnecessary) concerns. The house was big (as expected for a family which had 10 children), but I did not get lost finding 'my' (well Lizzie's really!) distant room. The doberman Bronson (or Bron :-Z ) seemed to trust me well enough not to not impede my way, even during the short times I was otherwise home alone. Phew - animals have never been my forte!

Heidi in Boranup Karri Forest

Mark observes Peter making the coffee

Heidi and Bronson at home

Welcome home mum!

Monday 16th September made the weather earlier in the week look positively brilliant - after waiting out a shower I headed into town again to check out the National Gallery of Victoria and The Treasury. With the rain not easing up I gave up on my plans for a walk around the back streets of Melbourne and a ride up to the top of the Eureka Tower and instead returned to Flemington to change in to some dry clothes in preparation for me and Ross meeting up with his cousin, Lisa, for dinner.

MCG viewed through a bridge

Ross was amazing and as well as driving me to the airport woke me up where my alarm somehow failed - another early morning start, with Tiger Air which worked out cheaper than Jetstar on this occasion, allowing me more hand luggage into the bargain (I still managed to be 1.6kg over the limit and found myself frantically drinking up and stuffing my pockets...). After hearing plenty of less than good things about Tiger Air I was glad to make it safely back to Brisbane only an hour or so late. I could tell I would not be needing my coat or jumper any more as I departed the airport and made my way slowly back to Marie's house. Still not feeling too well I was glad I had opted for the flight up to Brisbane rather than road travel, and the remainder of Tuesday and Wednesday were spent recuperating.

Gateway Motorway

It was time to get back into action on Thursday - I met Ros for a trip up to the airport to see mum arrive! We made a rather efficient job of collecting her and returning to Ros's abode in Mount Cotton.

Mum arriving at Brisbane airport

A calm moment with wombat for 10mth Kimba at Ros' house

Rosilyn by her front door

The most livable city in the world

Tuesday 10th September was the day the car had to be returned and meant the end of our awesome road trip - we checked out of our hostel (as it was a bit out of town and expensive to boot) and relocated to one right at the edge of the CBD, unloading our bags and leaving Cherina and Melanie to deliver the car to the airport. I took a stroll along to Flagstaff Gardens and the Harbour, and we all reunited at the huge Queen Victoria Market. After we had made the most of closing time bargains we decided to take a loop of the free tram then walk around for a while to get a feel for the city. We visited the Yarra River until we got too hungry and cold and returned to the hostel.

View over the Harbour

I strolled down the Yarra to the Botanic Gardens the following day before taking a tour of the Parliament and visiting St Patrick's Cathedral and the Melbourne Museum. After yesterday's experience cooking in a rather cramped kitchen, we took a trip down to Chinatown for dinner, enjoying the novelty of using an iPad as a menu.

Witnessing Melbourne's 'Four Seasons in a Day'

A trip down to the State Library came the day after; I probably would not have come in here had a 'chugger' not recommended I visit to see Ned Kelly's armour on display, but was glad to witness the huge reading room (and also to access free to use computers and wifi!) and generally get lost in the vastness within... Following this I opted for a free walking tour, one of many free events the hostel appeared to host. The tour took us round the centre of Melbourne, incorporating stints on the free tram and free bus and showing some cheap ways to enjoy Melbourne. Among other things this included Harbour Town (a dirt cheap shopping area rejected by locals), fancy looking Crown Casino, ACMI (for a bit of old school gaming) and some alleys which had been heavily graffitied. As the free tour had taken most of the afternoon somehow the hostel decided it was only fair that we were given free food and drinks for the evening :)

Victoria State Library Reading Room

City behind lit up Flinders Station

I spent a bit more time at the library the following morning, still feeling deprived of internet. I had seen signs to a chess collection but not had time to locate it yesterday, and as I headed there, overhearing a school tour, I discovered it was in fact the largest in the Southern hemisphere and people await challengers there! Once I had defeated Boris at chess it was time to visit highly regarded Chocolait for a rather filling hot chocolate before heading off for a walk along Brunswick Street, and a second short visit to the museum. I walked around the North end of the centre of town, visiting the gaol and baths (sadly neither offered much to see...) before collecting my bags and heading to Federation Square to meet Ross, who had visited us in London and whose parents I had seen in Brisbane. After taking me out for dinner and taking me on a quick guided tour by the river we returned to his flat in Flemington where we watched the end of the AFL 'finals' game that was being played at the MCG.

Melbourne Fire Show

On Saturday I walked along to Kensington station (there is also a South Kensington but I did not make it there) to experience Melbourne train catching. I could not believe that on  weekends you can travel as much as you like on public transport for $3.50 (just over £2) and made the most of it, visiting Harbourtown again and taking a Sea Shepherd tour on the temporarily nearby Bob Barker anti-whaling vessel. This was followed by a tram trip down to the Shrine of Remembrance followed by a walk along St Kilda waterfront and the nearby area. On the return to the centre of town I met up with Ross for dinner and returned for an early night - I was not feeling 100% :(

Melbourne skyline viewed from the Shrine of Remembrance

St Kilda waterfront

We made a late start in the morning and Ross kindly drove me down to Phillip Island. We started off at the information centre then straight to the beach for a stroll in the warmest weather I had seen since arriving in Melbourne (I was not even cold without a jacket). Our next stop was the surprisingly large town of Cowes, (it has Woolworths, Coles and IGA supermarkets) where we walked along the pier and fought seagulls for our fish and chips. As darkness approached we got our front row seats at Penguin Parade; little penguins come ashore shortly after sunset and waddle up to their living quarters. After checking under the car for penguins trying to smuggle themselves off the island we started the long return journey...

Ross at the beach

Penguin going home