The enemy is sicklepod

Monday 16 September saw me wise enough to know that Tanya's cappucino was not to be missed for breakfast.

Cappuccino and fresh air were features of breakfast

Eventually I asked if any had heard the shots in the night. 'That was me', proclaimed a grinning Steve. 'My aim is not too good with a torch strapped to the shotgun, but I think I hit that wild dog in the rump!'  Mystery solved, but even so I did not fancy the company of such creatures so my doors stayed closed overnight. Back at the tree planting site some weed control was in order. I enjoyed pulling out sicklepod (once in seed it is impervious to poison) and was delighted to learn that death by fire was its fate. I was not too impressed with Steve's idea of simply dousing the freshly pulled weeds in something flammable and setting alight, and my disdain soon proved justified. After gathering plenty of kindling a fierce blaze under the midday sun saw the job well executed, and I felt happy and fulfilled.

Recently planted trees and ashes from the sicklepod burning against the backdrop of Mt Sorrow

I readily partook of the afternoon trip to Mossman to stock up with provisions, collect a repaired washing machine and deposit another. A cane train trundling down the middle of the main street confirmed that Mossman's sugar mill was repaired and working, to the relief of the local growers. I also became aware of how many places now provided shade for parked cars, giving protection from the sun, and on occasion hail. 

Woolworths in Mossmann, with peeking peaks!

On the way home I purchased a red paw paw (papaya) from a stall, the skins of which I hoped might lure the cassowaries to visit. We returned via the little town of Daintree (untempted by the crocodile express), explored a little upriver, and took in the view from Walu Wugirriga lookout. Dinner was another of Tanya's delicious, chilli featuring, creations :) 

Fruit stall and Bismark palm

Daintree ferry crossing - Steve's small sailing boat was moored on the opposite bank

For breakfast Tuesday I enjoyed some paw paw, and hoped the cassowaries would appreciate my generosity and do the same. Hearing that Roger (Steve's boss who was to arrive that evening) was fond of a fire was all the incentive I needed to spend the morning gathering more than enough fuel to make a roaring blaze. I also needed to take more photos of my surroundings, collect some of the coconuts lying around, and so forth. An afternoon walk to another pool sounded a lovely idea. 

Steve fancied a quick swim

Detouring to investigate some signs of frustrated habitation, we took longer than usual to return home. Tanya reported that the cassowaries had been, stayed for about 20mins enjoying the paw paw, and left not long before our return. Arghgghgh!

The cassowaries appeared from the far right when Jason and Hester were visiting

Accessing coconut insides is another specialist task accomplished by Steve

Replete after dinner: Steve, Roger (suitably impressed with my fire making prowess despite an absence of Boy Scout training), Tanya and her son Beau

Lost and Found in the Tropics

Sunday 15 September I awoke after a sound sleep and peeped out from the mosquito net to see this lovely misty mountain scene.

A cabin with a view

In the absence of any other way of knowing the time, the noise of the generator confirmed when the others were up. In daylight I soon found my way back to the house, making certain to remember landmarks along the way, such as the ablutions block and long drop.

Flowers from ginger plants in the garden adorned the shower

Long drop, framed by twin coconuts, with shower next door

Steve drove to the tree planting site (about 15km north) to show me some of Jason's handiwork, set against the spectacular backdrop of Mt Sorrow. The heat from the sun soon became intense so we took a sheltered walk to a tranquil pool in the creek between the two planting sites. Still not terribly compos mentis, my sense of direction was a little off as I attempted to find the way out again! Steve expressed surprise that any of 'the Hoffmann cousins' with their country background could be so daft!  Ha - I think I was the only one of my generation of that extensive clan to have grown up in town! After a short detour taking in the picturesque views at Cape Tribulation it was time to head home for a late lunch and relaxed afternoon.

I almost tripped over this well camouflaged goanna at Cape Tribulation

When the day cooled a little, Tanya showed me nearby Thornton beach, telling of the volcanic pumice washed up from NZ. We watched four lads swim to nearby Struck Island, clearly unconcerned about the potential presence of crocodiles. At low tide a causeway allows this island to be reached on foot.

Thornton Beach looking south to Cooper Creek which is inhabited by crocodiles  

Four lads have almost reached Struck Island

I settled in my cabin for another rather early bedtime. About midnight two, very close sounding, shots rang forth. What potential maniac might be on the loose my fertile imagination wondered? I closed the insubstantial lattice doors, turned off the light and burrowed deep under the doona (the temperature did drop at night!), hoping to wake alive next morning.

Tropical Wonderland

Saturday 14 September. Despite a couple of hours sleep I felt more than a little disorientated in sunny Cairns. 

Lipstick palms adorned The Hotel Cairns where I snoozed

The 8am walk around the seafront with Steve allowed me to recognise some of the views in Jason and Hester's photos, although I could not recall the town at all from a family visit back in the 70s. Tanya then drove us to the botanic gardens where Steve's knowledge of exotic plants soon became evident. An 11am brunch appointment at Holloway beach north of Cairns was comfortably managed; the photo suggests I indulged in my first, long awaited, malted milk. I do remember the sad phone chat with June (Steve's mum) which revealed that her sister Val, who had a deep stroke before I left England, was unlikely to recover. I also spoke with my father's cousin Delma, and hoped she might like to meet and get to know me.

Brunch in a pleasant cafe next to the beach in north Cairns

The weather had warmed considerably so as we journeyed north I was pleased to discover that in Tanya's car air conditioning equated to opening the window. My ongoing somewhat confused state deepened when the chap we picked up on a 180 degree detour near Port Douglas was dropped off in Mossman (although this did explain why he was not unhappy about being squashed in the back seat with Steve and assorted objects) and replaced with the motor for Steve's boat! Feeling the need of fresh air and less motion, I wandered around Mossmann while the others went about their business. I was awestruck by the huge epiphyte covered rain trees lining the road heading north out of town, and perplexed by the horrid substance-less smell (too recognisable to one who gets travel sick) which I later learnt came from the sugar mill nearby.

Looking south towards Mossman

I was awake enough to appreciate the Daintree ferry crossing, and soon we arrived at Steve and Tanya's residence near Diwan. I later discovered that the main gate has lovely images of a frog (symbol of the Australian Rainforest Foundation for whom Steve worked) and local big bird, the cassowary. 

The frog and cassowary (hidden by eucalypt flower) gate

I soon settled into my cabin, 'Ulysses', and agreed with Tanya's recommendation of sleeping with doors open to appreciate the morning view. Tanya created a most delicious Thai pumpkin curry soup for dinner from pumpkins grown in the garden. I accepted Steve's offer to walk me back to my cabin as, even with a lamp, I risked not finding my way. In Perth, while most went to bed around midnight I, still hyper, sat up for hours checking emails, FB, trying to convince myself I really was in Australia; now I was in great need of an early night. With the Internet only available in Steve's office, I downloaded my latest photos and soon nodded off.